Dispatches › Summit Xperience Mt Everest Base Camp 2009 Dispatch

Thursday April 09, 2009

We ended the last night of our official trek appropriately by watching a National Geographic special entitled "Return to Everest." It was wonderful to recognize all the places that we had been trekking over the past few weeks.

Our morning started with the unexpected wake-up call announcing that our flight had been changed. We were now booked on the first flight out of Lukla. We raced up the hill to the airport and gave quick hugs and goodbyes. We received a surprise gift of katas before we continued running. We were briefly stopped by security and then the race was on. We ran across the tarmac and the plane was revving its engines as we stumbled onboard. We barely had time to sit down and receive our cotton ball ear-plugs before the plane lifted off. Luckily, we landed safely in Kathmandu.

One of our favorite parts of the day then occurred. We were able to shower away several weeks worth of dust and grime. We hope the plumbing at the hotel is up to the challenge!

We spent the remainder of the day sight-seeing and shopping in the Buddhist section. Tomorrow: Kathmandu's Patan Square and off to Bangkok

Sue, Doug & Barbara

Wednesday April 08, 2009

Believe it or not, we are finally back in Lukla. We dearly paid for that easy first hour down out of Lukla when we first arrived as we had to reclimb up in order to arrive at our lodge. Today was a typical 6 hour day of trekking. The way just seemed a little longer today as we were eagerly anticipating reaching the end of our journey. We hope that our plane will leave tomorrow at 7 am for Kathmandu where clean clothes and showers await us. Tomorrow: Kathmandu.

Sue, Doug & Barbara

Monday April 06, 2009

Doug started his day off today by getting tipped over by a yak. The load the yak was carrying was too large, and just pushed Doug back against a wall. Most of our hiking day was spent going downhill with the exception of getting into Kumjung. It is located at the top of a mountain and took many many steps of climbing to reach. We visited the Kumjung Monastary where for a 200 rupee donation, we were allowed to view the skull of a yeti! After pictures, the skull was duly locked up. It looked liked a hairy scalp. We spent some time inside the Monastery and were even shown the correct hand gestures to show respect.

The highlight of the day was being invited to our guide's home for hot tea. you enter the home through the downstairs where there is a stable for the family yak. you then climb stairs to the family living quarters. The walls were lined with beautiful copper pots that at one time were used to store water. there were also many quilts stored to combat the himalayan cold. The hospitality we were shown was very gracious and heart warming. The Nepalese are a warm and giving people as has been experirenced our entire journey. We close tonight listening to the new Nepal President giving a speech on Dish TV. Tomorrow: Monjo

Gavin Attwood

Sunday April 05, 2009

Sue has called in to the Summit Xperience office to tell us that the team descended 4000ft today in 8 hours to the village of Pangboche and all the altitude headaches have disappeared! The last two hours were cold, windy and foggy. The trail was steep and they wondered how they had managed to get up the hill just a few days ago.

During the hike a rescue helicopter flew overhead and they discovered that yaks are scared of helicopters as they scattered all over the hillside!

The team is snug and warm in their lodge for the first time in several days and are enjoying listening to Buffalo Soldiers by Bob Marley. Tomorrow they continue their descent to Kumjung.

Gavin Attwood

Saturday April 04, 2009, Gorak Shep

Lots of exciting news from the team on their Everest Base camp adventure. Despite a number of ailments Sue, Doug and Barbara all arrived safely at Gorak Shep, the last stop before going on to Everest Base camp proper. Gorak Shep, at about 17,000ft is really no more than a couple of basic lodges that are only open during the trekking season. Once the team arrived they ate some lunch before Sue and Barbara made the ascent of Kala Pattar. It is from this peak that the most spectacular views of Everest are to be had. Kala Pattar is about 18,000ft high and an awesome achievement in itself. They encountered high winds and temperatures of 5 degrees on the summit. Doug decided to continue his recovery in the lodge but was able to climb to the top the following day when he was rewarded with amazing weather and took many stunning photographs.

Sue and Barbara continued on in to Everest Basecamp along a rocky and at times, steep path. They came across the Discovery Channel camp before moving on up to be the first customers of the season at the bakery! They also visited the medical clinic which treats climbers who have been hurt higher on Mount Everest. The clinic does very important work and saves lives each year.

The team will now start their descent to warmer weather and thicker air tomorrow.

This dispatch is a summary of calls from the team over the past few day.

Gavin Attwood

Wednesday April 01, 2009, Dingboche

Today is our rest day in Dingboche. It couldn't have come at a better time. The entire team is sick and right now our beds and bathroom are our closest friends. Barb went up a mountain near Dingboche this morning, rising to an elevation of near 5000 meters. The last half hour of the hike was extremely scary as they were going across a steep incline where any misstep could be the last. She felt like she could look straight down! The highlight of the day for both Sue and Barb was the chance to take a shower. It is truly one of the finer pleasures in life. We are hoping not to freeze tonight when we go to bed. There was ice on the inside of the windows of our rooms when we woke up today. Tomorrow: Lobuche.

Tuesday March 31, 2009, Dingboche

Memorials to climbers

Sue, Doug and Barbara woke up to 3" of snow and 30 degree temperatures today! It is apparently very hard to get out of their warm sleeping bags in the mornings. On the hike to Dingboche they passed through an area where there are numerous memorials to climbers who have died on the surrounding mountains. A sober reminder that the mountains are both beautiful and deadly at the same time. They ascended over 2000 feet to arrive at Dingboche which at 14,040ft is above tree line. They are looking forward to a rest day in Dingboche before continuing their adventure to Mt Everest Base camp.

Monday March 30, 2009 Tengboche Monastery

The team called in their dispatch today. It seems that although they are all still suffering for some ailments they felt strong enough to leave Namche and hike to their next stop at Tengboche Monastery. They enjoyed spectacular views of Ama Dablam and Lhotse along the way. The trail starts level out of Namche but soon you have to descend a long way to a river crossing. After the crossing they had to re-gain all the lost altitude and do the ‘Stair Master’ up to Tengboche Monastery. They were greeted by chanting monks and monks blowing long horns as they arrived in Tengboche. The monks said prayers for them and their families back home. They also had their khata’s blessed for good luck.

Sunday March 29 - Still in Namche

When we last wrote in, we had planned on moving on to Tengboche and the monastery today. However, upon awakening this morning, we were feeling a little under the weather. Accordingly, we decided to go ahead and take our originally scheduled rest day to further acclimatize.

When we first set foot outside our lodge this morning, it was as if we were in a completely different world. The fog and clouds from yesterday had lifted and we were treated to our first good view of all the mountains surrounding us. After a short hike, we were able to see Ama Dablam, Everest, Nuptse, and Lhotse. We also had a good view of Khumbu Hulla. The local sherpa people pray to this peak as a God. Consequently, no one is allowed to climb it.

Sue and Barb started the day off by going to see the Sherpa Museum. The Museum is the national museum of the Sagaramantha National Park. We were lucky enough to have a Nepalese officer share his pride in his culture with us.

As we started back down the hill, we were treated to the sights and sounds of a primary school. Naturally, we detoured to get a tour and to take pictures. We were fortunate enough to get to spend time inside the 3rd grade classroom. Believe it or not, the curriculum seems to be the same world-wide. There were posters on the wall depicting parts of a sentence, parts of a plant, and types of transportation. The classes sit at tables with benches. There appear to be only 10 or so students per class. There is a separate building which houses the "specials" classes: science, computer, reading/art. Those rooms were locked so we were unable to get a glimpse. The sounds of children running and playing are universal!

We have spent the rest of the day relaxing. We got some wonderful shopping done - including the purchase of yak bells to serve as wind chimes for our homes. The sound is very soothing. It is also amazing how many different pitches there are to the bells. We have also purchased sweaters to help keep warm (yes, the temperature is dropping again!). As we write to you, it is raining. Hopefully we will have good weather tomorrow as we continue our adventure!

Sue, Doug & Barbara

March 28, 10:00 am MST - Namche Bazaar

We left Monjo this morning around 8 am headed toward Namche Bazaar. We crossed lots of suspension bridges adorned with prayer flags over the Dudh Kosi River. The scenery enroute for much of the way was beautiful. We started in a valley and had snow-covered mountains surrounding us. What we failed to think about as we began was the fact that being in the valley meant that we had nowhere to go but up. Going up does not give a true picture of our morning. Take the Stairmaster at the gym, set it at a 45 degree angle, and go for 4+ hours carrying a load. This only slightly gives an idea of our experience. At the end we were gaining a thousand feet vertical elevation every 30 minutes. Out of every torture though, comes a glimmer of hope. At 10:00 this morning, we got our first view of Mount Everest. There are no words to describe the view or our thoughts and feelings upon first seeing it. Mystical. Majestic. Spiritual. Amazing. What is still incredible is how far away we are from it. It can only get better.

We rolled into Namche Bazaar around 12:30. Namche Bazaar is a city set on a hill (aka cliff). The city is set up like a bowl. Our lodge is toward the top of the bowl and looks down into Namche Bazaar. When we came in, they were just wrapping up the weekly market. You could buy just about anything including rounds of Nak cheese. Doug and Barb ordered yak steak for lunch and thoroughly enjoyed it. Doug says it is the best meal he has had on this trip.

We are now putting on layer upon layer of clothes. As it gets later in the day, it gets extremely cold. Fog now covers the city of Namche Bazaar. All that is left is the sound of yak bells and a rooster crowing. Tomorrow: Tengboche and the monastery.

Sue, Doug & Barbara

March 27, 8:15 am MST - Lukla flight

Today began with a beautiful flight into Lukla. It was the complete opposite of yesterday. For the first time ever, we were in a plane which was flying lower than the mountains. After landing, we were treated to our first sight of the Himalaya. They were surrounding us on all sides, giving all of us the profound sense of their grandeur. There is such a feeling of spirituality as you see the tall peaks and hear the bells on the prayer wheels. The trip to Monjo was different from what we had imagined. There are little villages every 15-20 minutes. The path in most places was made of stone that was laid by hand. It was extremely rocky and much steeper than we had imagined. The path alternated from a steep rise to a steep decline with very little overall elevation gain. For a good part of the trek, we followed behind the sound of yak bells ahead of us on the path. We were all extremely glad to arrive at our teahouse around 2:30. The temperature has fluctuated through the day. We froze getting off the plane in Lukla, warmed up to a single layer while hiking, and the temperature has now dropped dramatically. Now that the sun has set, it is lightly snowing. We are curled up next to a pot bellied stove waiting for dinner and warming up. We will try for a good night's sleep tucked up in our sleeping bags. Tomorrow, Namche Bazaar.

Sue, Doug & Barbara

March 26, 7:44 am MST - Lukla delayed

Today was the day scheduled for us to fly to Lukla to begin our trek. However, the reality didn't quite follow the plan. We left for the airport at 5 a.m. and waited several hours due to weather (fog) until a plane was able to leave. We got onto a tiny 14 seat plane and off we headed for Lukla. Once we were around 5 minutes away from Lukla, we had to turn around. The weather there was bad and it wouldn't have been safe for us to land. Back to Kathmandu we went. We waited a few more hours until it was announced that all flights for the day to Lukla had been cancelled. We'll try again tomorrow to get out.

The only other newsworthy events for the day was our trip to the Garden of Dreams. Imagine the botanic gardens with an Eastern flair and you have it. It was a wonderful oasis in the middle of a hectic city, and much needed by all. Also, our luggage has arrived! We are thrilled to be able to be outfitted properly before leaving since we heard today that it was snowing heavily in Namche Bazaar.

We're looking forward to a safe arrival in Lukla tomorrow and the chance to begin our trek.

Sue, Doug & Barbara

March 25, 10:02 pm MST - Safe and Happy, but without luggage.

We have arrived safely in Kathmandu, although not all of our luggage has. However, luggage or not, the spirit of adventure continues.

Kathmandu is amazing. Try to imagine for a moment a city filled with 3 million people. There are cows, goats, dogs, and chickens running through the street dodging cars, motorcycles, bicycles, tuk tuks, buses, and people. The streets are incredibly narrow. There are not shopping malls as we know them. Rather, small open air street-side stores surround each street. They are filled with every type of object you can imagine.

Today was primarily a sight-seeing day. We began at Manushi, an organization begun in 1991 to empower women economically and socially. The women make and sell crafts - you may have even purchased some at Ten Thousand Villages in Denver! From Manushi we went to Patan and Bhaktapur. Originally in Nepal, Patan, Bhaktapur and Kathmandu were all individual Kingdoms with their own Monarch's. As time has gone on, the government in Nepal has changed, but the palaces remain. There are many temples and the architecture was amazing! We finished the day at the Monkey Temple - named for the monkeys which swarm all over this Buddhist Temple. We spun the prayer wheels along with monks and other tourists.

Tomorrow we fly to Lukla first thing in the morning to begin our trek to Everest Base Camp. Hope that pilot knows what he is doing! Here's to a safe flight!

March 24, 9:14 pm MST - Team arrives at Kathmandu

Doug, Sue and Barbara have arrived safely in Kathmandu after a long series of flights. They are all well although Doug & Sue's luggage has not arrived yet. Fortunately they have a couple of days in the city for their bags to arrive before flying to the village of Lukla where they will start their hike to Mt Everest Basecamp.

March 14, 6:17 pm MST - Doug and Sue McPeek, getting ready for the adventure

Even though I have read about the trail, looked at pictures, and talked with some folks, I know it will not be a substitute for actually being there. My hope is to laugh a lot, be very sad at times, maybe even get frustrated, but never become disengaged. I hope I will have a lot of moments where all I can do is stand and say, “Wow!” In the year leading up to this trip, I have done some challenging hiking and found other ways to prepare physically – although you can’t tell by looking at my picture! I know that no amount of physical preparation is a guarantee that I will make it all the way up Mount Kala Patthar or even to base camp. I also know I need to leave all emotional baggage at home. Even then, there are still no guarantees. I’ll place one foot in front of the other and try not to “make it” so fast that I don’t make the time to enjoy the moments.
Doug McPeek

Doug and I first began dreaming about visiting Mount Everest on the plane home from Africa in 2007 after our trip to Mount Kilimanjaro. Since then, I have spent many hours excitedly planning and preparing. I've read and researched about everything from the history to the geography of Nepal to stretch my mind. I’ve climbed 9 14ers in Colorado in the past year to strengthen my body. I've watched the IMAX movie about Everest. Everyone who knows me has been watching me bouncing around in excitement for the past year saying, "I'm going to Nepal! I'm going to see Mount Everest in person! How cool is that?"

Now that we are getting close to an imminent departure, I find that my excitement has been placed on the back burner for a while in order to allow for the increase in my stress level. At the moment, I am feeling completely overwhelmed and wondering how on earth things will ever get completed before the date we need to step foot on that first airplane. There are so many things to do. Finish writing the papers for my graduate school class. Visit my step-mother in the neurosurgical intensive care unit in the hospital. Get a cortisone shot for pain. Go to physical therapy and visit the orthopedist in preparation for my ankle surgery (which happens the day after I get back). Write report cards, awards, and 4 weeks worth of lesson plans. Hit the gym to work with my trainer. PACK!

Still, I have the upmost confidence that things will fall into place. Everything will get finished. Bags will get packed. Before we know it, we will be in Kathmandu getting ready to start another adventure together. Many of my friends don’t understand why I would rather go to Nepal to spend my vacation hiking for 3 weeks instead of going somewhere to rest and relax. All I can say in response is:

"Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living." –- Miriam Beard
"One's destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things." –- Henry Miller
"The journey, not the arrival, matters." -- T. S. Eliot

Here's to a wonderful journey, filled with seeing things in new ways, and living each moment!
Sue McPeek

March 14, 6:17 pm MST - Barbara packing for the Everest Base Camp trek

I can hardly believe it! In just a few days I will be on a plane heading to Nepal! After 60 years of looking at pictures of the Himalayas and Mt. Everest, I am actually going to see them, up close and personal. I already know that all those mornings of getting up at 4am to work out, all the frustrations and discussions of planning, and saving every penny that I can, will be so worth it. There are so many questions going through my mind at this point – did I really pack everything that I’ll need, i.e. enough warm clothes, will my sleeping bag be warm enough, do I have enough batteries, and where are my M & M’s? Hopefully my luggage will not be lost, and do those pilots flying into Lukla really know what they’re doing?

I finally feel like I’m physically and mentally prepared (one added benefit is that exercise really does make you feel better). I plan to take hundreds of pictures, make loads of memories, and try to make sure that this is an adventure to keep in my heart as well as my mind.
Barbara Blanchard